Every Wednesday, Elizabeth Armstrong takes guests on a nature tour of the Buccaneer. There seems to be nothing particularly unusual in that until
you realize that she has more than an idle interest in the history, flora, and fauna of this resort on the island of St. Croix. Her family has owned and operated the resort for more than 50 years, and as general manager she is now the third generation of Armstrongs to hold that position.
What was originally an 11-room hotel on a 17th-century plantation estate has evolved into a 340-acre resort with 138 rooms, suites and cottages, three crescent-shaped white-sand beaches, eight hard courts (two with lights), an 18-hole golf course, and a small spa and fitness center. Yet it has never lost its personal touch. Guests may no longer help rake the beach, as they once did, but they do feel very much a part of the resort.
Pro Shop: 340-773-3036
Tennis director Don deWilde has run the tennis operation at the Buccaneer since 1978. It isn't hard to see what keeps him here. The tennis complex occupies a prime location: a terraced hillside just below the hotel overlooking the beach. Its covered wooden deck is a favorite place to gather after playing for the views of the Caribbean and on very clear days the islands of Tortola and Virgin Gorda in the British Virgin Islands. "You can play tennis here 365 days a years," says deWilde.

On any given morning at the Buccaneer you'll hear the thwock, thwock of tennis balls and may look out to see nearly all of the eight courts in use. Some of those players will be hotel guests, who have first priority; many, however, will be local members for whom this is their home club. That combination ensures a stable of players for guests looking for games and generally improves the turnout for the various weekly programs scheduled during the busy winter season. And it has another advantage, according to deWilde: "A lot of our guests come specifically for the tennis, knowing that they'll run into some of the same guests year after year or meet up with the same local players," he notes. "A lot of lasting friendships begin on our courts."
Tennis Staff. DeWilde attended William and Mary on a tennis scholarship and captained the team and then took a job teaching tennis at the Williamsburg Inn while working on a Ph.D. in child psychology. He interrupted those studies when an opportunity arose to run the tennis program at what was then the 600-room Holiday Inn in Freeport, Bahamas, and then a second operation at the Howard Hughes-owned Xanadu. When the Bahamas declared independence from Britain in 1976, he was forced out but had grown to love the islands so much he decided to look around at American territories in the Caribbean. In 1978 he took the job at the Buccaneer on a trial basis expecting to stay a year. Instead he never left.
"What makes this unique is the interaction between hotel guests and locals," says deWilde. "I have a local membership I can call on for game matching. After more than 20 years here I know every single player on the island. A lot of lasting friendships are made between guests and locals."
Tennis Programs. Game matching and private lessons are staples of the tennis operation. Those are, however, supplemented by a variety of weekly tennis events (during the busy winter season), including a ladies' doubles round robin, men's open doubles draw, a ladies' drill session, and a men's B and under doubles. A ball machine is also available.
Pro Shop. Spacious and air conditioned, this well-stocked pro shop sits on the upper terrace in the center of the court complex. In addition to a good selection of clothing and equipment, it offers on-site restringing and a variety of beverages (including beer) for sale. A covered wooden deck at one end looks across the lower terrace of courts at the beach and water beyond.
Courts & Fees. There are 8 hard courts (2 with lights) arranged on two terraces cut into the hillside below the main hotel and above Mermaid Beach. They have benches but no shade and only the lower bank has water on the court itself (if you're playing on the upper bank, the nearest water is a refrigerated fountain on the deck of the pro shop). Court fees: $16/hour.
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Lodging consists of hotel rooms, cottages, hotel suites, and luxury oceanfront suites. These rates, in U.S. dollars, are nightly per room, and include full American breakfast, use of watersports equipment, and the kids' camp.
Apr. 2-Dec. 13, 2008 (except holidays)
Rooms $280-$440, Cottages/Suites $420-$695
Jan. 2-Apr. 15, 2009
Rooms $340-$695, Cottages/Suites $640-$990
Apr. 16-Dec. 19, 2009
Rooms $295-$460, Cottages/Suites $440-$730
Seasons. Year-round.
Travel Instructions. Two airlines serve St. Croix
from the U.S. mainland: American Eagle and US Airways, making stops in St. Thomas or San Juan, Puerto Rico en route. However you can fly to St. Thomas or St. Croix on any of several other major carriers and then make connections to the half dozen or so commuter airlines connecting St. Croix with other Caribbean Islands.
General Tourist Information. For detailed information about the island of St. Croix, contact the St. Croix Hotel & Tourism Association at 800-524-2026. For general tourist information, contact the U.S. Virgin Islands Department of Tourism at 800-372-USVI or visit its offices in Atlanta, Chicago, Los Angeles, Miami, New York, or Washington, DC. Among other things, it publishes a brochure that outlines rates at resorts, hotels, and inns on St. Croix, St. John, and St. Thomas.