Roughly 20 miles north of Phoenix, Arizona, the Carefree Highway slips away off Interstate 17 and runs due east toward the desert foothills. It ends at a hulking mound of 12-million-year-old granite rocks as haunting as the monuments of lost civilizations. It's as if the Earth itself had heaved up a great dam against the urban sprawl that is rapidly devouring acre after acre of the Valley of the Sun.
Hidden behind those rocks is a 1,300-acre resort sensitively designed to preserve the raw power of the surrounding Sonoran Desert while cradling guests in uncommon comfort. Dubbed The Boulders, it takes the very shape and color of the rocks as an architectural model. The main lodge blends so well with the stones behind that from a distance it seems to be part of the landscape itself. So too do the 160 generously sized rooms, which have kiva fireplaces, traditional viga ceilings, Mexican tile, leather chairs, and private patios or balconies. Scattered below that pile of rocks, they occupy low, pueblo-like casitas the color of adobe and are thus themselves barely visible among the saguaro cactus, feathery palo verde trees, and the rest of a botanical garden of desert foliage.
No less impressive are its two sterling golf courses—the North Course ranks among the top 75 resort courses in the nation—and its tennis club and spa. There are also nature trails and paths around the rocks to shops at El Pedregal on the far side or to the top of the rocks and sunset views across the Valley of the Sun. Meanwhile, exceptional regional American cuisine is as close as Latilla in the main lodge.
Pro Shop: 480-488-2570
The tennis complex, which has 5 hard and 3 classic Clay courts, has begun to emerge from the shadow of golf. "We have a lot of people call, particularly from the East Coast, and tell us they're coming specifically for tennis and relaxation," notes director Dale Light. 
"I want us to have a complete program so that people can come from anywhere and get all the tennis they want." To improve playing conditions, the Boulders converted three of its hard courts to classic Clay (a kind of carpet with a brick-colored overlay of mineral infill) and cushioned three of the remaining five hard courts.
The fact that it is 5 to 10 degrees cooler in Carefree than in Phoenix encourages play, and Light and his staff follow the hotel's policy of providing attentive service, which on the courts means working attentively to set up game. To that end they keep a complete guest history in the computer, including such information as their court preferences, their room preferences, and their table preferences in the various restaurants. The Boulders isn't just for golfers anymore.
Tennis Staff. I've known Dale Light since the 1980s when he was at New Mexico's Inn of the Mountain Gods. I caught up with him again, 
more than a decade later, at Colorado's Broadmoor, where he started a tennis aerobics program and worked with its then camp director and former U.S. Davis Cup Captain Dennis Ralston. He continues to introduce innovative ideas, here at the the Boulders. Under him the program has expanded to include drills every day of the week, including the tennis aerobics, doubles strategy, and intensive weekend drills. He's also increased the number of mixers. Under him, tennis membership has grown to more than 100 active players.
Tennis Programs. Much of the activity at the courts is designed with local or seasonal members in mind, including leagues, tennis exchanges with local clubs, and special events. Guests, however, are welcome to take part in most of these activities, and every other week or so Light stages a social mixture, which also brings locals and guests together.
Light also custom designs specialty camps for groups and teams. His pitch is, "Come out and spend a weekend and work on a different aspect of your game." He feels that players can improve more by focusing on posture, alignment, and movement, and even health and diet, than from a narrow concentration on technique. Admitting that his approach is "largely out of the box," he adopts an Eastern-influenced philosophy. He teaches that for recreational players "the joy we derive from tennis should come from engaging in a healthy, holistic, fun experience and not be dependent on winning a USTA league match. I teach completely from that place."
Courts & Fees. The 5 hard and 3 classic Clay courts occupy several levels below the golf clubhouse and fitness center. The area surrounding the courts consists both of the natural desert landscaping and of plots of yucca, ocotillo cactus, and desert flowers in reds, oranges, and purples. Bike rentals are also available here. The courts lie perhaps a quarter mile from the rooms, along a nature trail through a botanical garden of desert species—though a free shuttle is available for those who don't want to walk. Mornings are generally busier than afternoons. The resort used to close for July and August, but now remains open year-round. Court fees: $25/court/hour.
Golf Courses. The Boulders has two 18-hole golf courses, Jay Morrish designed both to draw their power from the surrounding desert landscape.
Spa & Fitness Center. At 33,000square feet, the Golden Door Spa at The Boulders delivers a broad range of treatments and services. Its facilities include a Watsu pool; Pilates, yoga, and tai chi classes; a Labyrinth inspired by a Hopi Indian medicine wheel; 24 treatment rooms, Japanese o'furo baths, and a café and tea room.
If you like the Boulders, but want a different sense of style—with or without the golf—also look at:
The resort has rooms called casitas as well as suites, one-to-three-bedroom villas, and new three-bedroom haciendas. Rates fluctuate with season and those provided below can serve as a guide.
Seasons. Year-round, though most comfortable from September to June.
Travel Instructions. By Air: The nearest major airport is Phoenix Sky Harbor International Airport (PHX), roughly 20 miles to the south.
General Tourist Information. Visit the Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau website or contact them toll-free at 877-CALLPHX or email visitors@visitphoenix.com.