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Roughly 20 miles north of Phoenix, Arizona, the Carefree Highway slips away off Interstate 17 and runs due east toward the desert foothills. It ends at a hulking mound of 12-million-year-old granite rocks as haunting as the monuments of lost civilizations. It's as if the Earth itself had heaved up a great dam against the urban sprawl that is rapidly devouring acre after acre of the Valley of the Sun.
Hidden behind those rocks is a 1,300-acre resort sensitively designed to preserve the raw power of the surrounding Sonoran Desert while cradling guests in uncommon comfort. Dubbed The Boulders, it takes the very shape and color of the rocks as an architectural model. The main lodge blends so well with the stones behind that from a distance it seems to be part of the landscape itself, while most of the 160 generously sized rooms—all with kiva fireplaces, traditional viga ceilings, and private patios or balconies—occupy low, pueblo-like casitas the color of adobe and are thus themselves barely visible among the saguaro cactus, feathery palo verde trees, and the rest of a botanical garden of desert foliage.
No less impressive are its two sterling golf courses—the North Course ranks among the top 75 resort courses in the nation—its tennis club and spa. There are also nature trails and paths around the rocks to shops at El Pedregal on the far side or to the top of the rocks and sunset views across the Valley of the Sun. Meanwhile, exceptional regional American cuisine is as close as Latilla in the main lodge.
Pro Shop: 480-488-2570
The tennis complex, which has 5 hard and 3 classic Clay courts, has begun to emerge from the shadow of golf. "We have a lot of people call, particularly from the East Coast, and tell us they're coming specifically for tennis and relaxation," notes director Dale Light.
"I want us to have a complete program so that people can come from anywhere and get all the tennis they want." To improve playing conditions, the Boulders converted three of its hard courts to classic Clay (a kind of carpet with a brick-colored overlay of mineral infill) and cushioned three of the remaining five hard courts.
Meanwhile, on my last visit I was pleased to find every court busy, whether with lessons, interclub matches, or social play. No doubt it helps that it is 5 to 10 degrees cooler in Carefree than in Phoenix and that Light and his staff follow the hotel's policy of providing attentive service, which on the courts means working attentively to set up games and then delivering pitchers of ice water with lemon slices and fresh towels. To that end they keep a complete guest history in the computer, including such information as their court preferences, their room preferences, and their table preferences in the various restaurants. The Boulders isn't just for golfers anymore.
Tennis Staff. I've known Dale Light since the 1980s when he was at New Mexico's Inn of the Mountain Gods. I caught up with him again, more than a decade later, at Colorado's Broadmoor, where he worked with Dennis Ralston and started a tennis aerobics program, which he continues here at the Boulders.
Under him the program has expanded to include drills every day of the week, sometimes two or three a day, including the tennis aerobics, doubles strategy, and intensive weekend drills. He's also increased the number of mixers. Under him, tennis membership has grown to more than 100 active players.
Tennis Programs. Much of the activity at the courts is designed with local or seasonal members in mind, including leagues, tennis exchanges with local clubs, and special events. Guests, however, are welcome to take part in most of these activities, and the next day's tennis events are all spelled out in the flyer left in the rooms each night at turndown. The staff works diligently to find opponents, drawing on a stable of strong local players when neither members nor other guests pan out. The weekly tennis calendar also includes drop-in clinics, drill sessions, and doubles clinics. Every other week he stages a social mixture, which also brings locals and guests together.
Courts & Fees. The 5 hard and 3 classic Clay courts occupy several levels below the golf clubhouse and fitness center. The area surrounding the courts consists both of the natural desert landscaping and of plots of yucca, ocotillo cactus, and desert flowers in reds, oranges, and purples. Bike rentals are also available here. The courts lie perhaps a quarter mile from the rooms, along a nature trail through a botanical garden of desert species—though a free shuttle is available for those who don't want to walk. Mornings are generally busier than afternoons. The resort used to closing for July and August, but now remains open year-round. Court fees: $25/court/hour.
Golf Courses. The Boulders has two 18-hole golf courses, both of which draw their power from the surrounding desert landscape.
Spa & Fitness Center. The Boulder opened a branch of the Golden Door Spa in the fall of 2001. This 33,000-square-foot sanctuary fuses the Zen-like qualities and Japanese influence of the original Golden Door with this desert setting. It has 25 treatment rooms, a meditative maze, and a 2,000-square-foot fitness center.
If you like the Boulders, but want a different sense of style—with or without the golf—look at these resorts:
The resort has rooms called casitas as well as suites, one-to-three-bedroom villas, and new three-bedroom haciendas. Rates fluctuate with season and those provided below can serve as a guide.
Travel Instructions. By Air: The nearest major airport is Phoenix Sky Harbor, roughly 20 miles to the south.
General Tourist Information. For general information about vacationing in the Phoenix/Scottsdale area, contact the Greater Phoenix Convention & Visitors Bureau or phone them toll-free at (877) CALLPHX.